A 3-Day Family-Friendly Itinerary for Saumur

Nestled along the banks of the Loire, Saumur is an ancient stronghold that has stood proud for centuries. The town rises up from the river with creamy tuffeau limestone buildings glowing golden in the sunlight — including its fairy-tale castle perched on a hilltop.

At its heart, Saumur is a quiet town, with a small central square and a charmingly understated vibe. While not as grand as some of its Loire Valley neighbours, its mix of elegance and slightly rough edges makes it feel authentic and relaxed. Ideal for families wanting a break — whether you're heading down to the South of France or meandering through the Route des Vins.

Don’t be fooled by the slow pace — Saumur is packed with things to do, especially if you like to be active. From cycling and canoeing, to wine tasting, château visits, and a surprisingly fun mushroom museum. For a town of its size, Saumur punches well above its weight — it’s home to:

• Over 1,500km of troglodyte caves

• 60% of France’s mushroom production

• The famous Crémant de Loire sparkling wine (made using the same method as Champagne)

We often stop in the Loire on the way down or way back from the South of France, usually Amboise which is equally full of charm but this time we opted for somewhere different and lucked out on Saumur!

Panoramic view of Château de Saumur overlooking the Loire River in France

A 3-Day Family-Friendly Itinerary for Saumur

You can easily compress this into 2 days if you're short on time, but if you’ve got 3 — even better. Read on for the top things to do in Saumur with the kids.

Evening Arrival: Crêpes and Cobblestones

After checking into the hotel, we wandered down to Place Saint-Pierre, the main square in town. It’s a relaxed space with cobbles, church bells, kids darting around, and plenty of options to eat.

We picked Crêperie Saint-Pierre – La Quichenotte, where we ordered savoury galettes followed by dessert crêpes — and a carafe of rosé. French comfort food always wins after a day on the road.

Day 1 – Stay Local: Château, Wine Caves & Ice Cream

Breakfast at Boulangerie-Pâtisserie LM Gouzy

Start with breakfast at Boulangerie-Pâtisserie LM Gouzy (Closed Wednesdays). €7.50 gets you a full spread — great coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, bread and jam, and the best croissants in town.

From there, walk up the winding path to Château de Saumur. The views across the Loire are stunning, and kids will enjoy roaming around the castle's ramparts and exhibits.

There’s a bistro at the castle, but we found a hidden gem just beyond over a wooden bride at the back of the castle: Bonheur Saumur, a small restaurant with views of the château and part of town. Their mushroom risotto, gorgonzola gnocchi, and small plates were excellent. (Someone near us had fish and chips that looked spot-on, too).

I had a pretty decent Paloma — grapefruit + tequila, a personal favourite. Oh, and there's a play area for the kids. Bonus!

Tip: Skip dessert — there’s ice cream waiting later.

Wander back into town and let the kids burn off energy at the park, there is a newly built dragon structure to play on.

From here, walk to Louis de Grenelle, one of Saumur’s most respected wine producers. They offer 30-minute tours of their underground wine cellars, carved into the limestone beneath the town, followed by a Crémant de Loire tasting. The Brut was our favourite. Friendly, quick, and very family-welcoming.

Finish up with an ice cream stop on Place Saint-Pierre or nearby Rue Saint-Jean, then head back to your hotel to relax before dinner.

Day 2 – Troglodyte Caves, Mushrooms, and Wine (Again!)

Today, head out of town — by car or bike.

Stop at a local boulangerie for filled baguettes to pack for a picnic later.

First stop: the Musée du Champignon (Mushroom Museum). Sounds dull, but it’s actually great fun. The museum is inside troglodyte caves, so it can bring a refreshing break from the July & August sun, cool even in peak summer. I’d recommend you and the family bring a jumper. Expect mushrooms, historic displays, and even a make-your-own mushroom bag station for kids. Allow about 45 minutes to an hour.

Kids exploring the Mushroom Museum’s troglodyte caves near Saumur

Just next door is Pierre et Lumière, a sculpture gallery also inside the caves - you can buy a pass for the two.

Grab a tea or ice cream at the museum café and browse the little shop.

Next, head to Ackerman, one of the oldest producers of Crémant de Loire — and their Royal Brut held favour with Queen Victoria, apparently. Their cellars are huge, with interactive light displays and a massive games area for kids. Think pétanque, Japanese Billiards, and more — while you sip wine in peace. They even have their own jus de raisin (grape juice) for the little ones.

Lights shows and wine; Playing in the Troglodyte caves at Ackerman

For lunch, find a picnic spot along the river — you passed a few on the way, or head a little further east and opposite Saint-Martin-de-la-Place, there's a quiet little beach with barely anyone around.

Note: Swimming in the Loire is generally discouraged due to currents, but locals do it during slack tide (usually 1–3pm in summer) or head to Île Millocheau (more below on that). Pack swimsuits and towels, and enjoy a paddle if you're cautious.

Head back to your hotel or go straight to dinner — your call.

Kids paddling on the banks of the Loire

Day 3 – Tanks, Horses, or Shopping

German Panther at Musée des Blindés in Saumur

Options today depend on your energy levels.

• The Musée des Blindés (Tank Museum) has over 250 tanks from around the world — many still operational. Surprisingly fascinating.

• The Musée de la Cavalerie is smaller, but great if you like horses and military history.

• Or visit the Cadre Noir, France’s elite equestrian school. They offer guided tours and equestrian shows, which are great value. Booking info here.

If you’re in the mood to wander, Saumur’s streets are lovely for a slow shop. I lost a blissful hour in Monoprix — picking up linen T-shirts, kids clothes, and the kind of French basics you always wish you owned more of. There’s also a few smaller boutiques on Rue d’Orléans, Rue Franklin Roosevelt, and Rue Saint-Jean.

Lunch tip: grab sandwiches and head over to the Île Millocheau, where there’s a small manmade beach and supervised swimming in summer (lifeguards from 1–9pm). The lake and boating area are perfect for a final bit of play before the next leg of your journey. Best news! It’s free!!

Île Millocheau Family Swim Area

☀️ Other Things to Do in Saumur

We didn’t try these, but they’re available:

• The petit train touristique (little tourist train), with hop-on-hop-off stops around town

• River cruises on the Loire (we skipped as they looked a bit basic)

• Château concerts — if you’re here in July or August, check for live music events. We tucked the kids into bed and heard a band echoing from the castle. Gutted we missed it.

⚠️ Watch Out for Sunday & Monday Closures

Many restaurants and shops close on Sundays and Mondays — so if you find somewhere you love, visit it on Saturday just in case.

🥐 Where to Eat & Drink in Saumur

• 🥐 Boulangerie-Pâtisserie LM Gouzy – Great value breakfast (€7.50), amazing croissants (Closed Wed)

• 🍰 Maison Gaspard – Tea room with breakfast, nice ambience, also a hotel

• 🥞 Crêperie Saint-Pierre – La Quichenotte – Crêpes, galettes, kid-friendly

• ☕ French Coffee Shop – On the river, very busy, opens at 10am. Looked good but always packed.

• 🍲 Bonheur Samur - tucked behind the castle, bistro with views of the castle offering Italian small plates, pasta, and french dishes. Cocktails too!

• 🍛 Thai Restaurant in the Square – Controversial in France, but genuinely fantastic red curry and Pad Thai. After a week of moules-frites, no regrets.

✨ Final Thoughts

Saumur is a town full of quiet charm and unexpected surprises — from troglodyte caves to sparkling Crémant, and castles to crepes. It’s perfectly placed as a family-friendly stopover or a slower Loire Valley escape. We came for a couple of nights and left wanting more.